Make this special raddle and see the modifications after the initial directions. First, use a piece of scrap lumber (but use soft wood) as long as the width of your loom and about 2″ wide. Mark 1/2″ increments along the whole length on a line that is 3/4″ in from one long edge. This offsets the nails so there is room for clamps in front of them during beaming.
To make a special raddle,2 put in #12 or #14 screw eyes instead of nails on the line 3/4″ in from the edge for 1/2″ sections. See Figure B. Then make a holding rod with a straightened wire coat hanger. The holding rod is all you need to hold the warp threads in the sections during beaming. If your raddle is long, use 2 holding rods, one from each end. A screw eye in the end makes it easy to hang up when not in use.
A New Modification to the Special RaddleOne weaver made a revision that I like a lot. She used a dowel for the holding rod instead of a coat-hanger wire. It fits in the screw eyes fairly snuggly so it doesn’t slip out. I made one and started with a dowel and found screw eyes to fit–not too snuggly. (If the fit is too snug, it will be hard to line up the screw eyes exactly straight so the dowel can go in.) Put a small rubber “O” ring on each end of the dowel so the dowel can’t slip out.
I used a 5/16″ dowel, 3/8″ LARGE EYE screw eyes, and “O” rings that measure approximately 7/32″ to 1/4″ inside diameter. Just find “O” rings that fit snuggly and prevent the dowel from sliding out of the screw eyes. They are in the plumbing section at a hardware store.
To make a simple raddle,pound finishing nails or nails with small heads at every 1/2″ mark. (Offsetting them, rather than lining them up single file, helps prevent splitting the wood, and allows you to make 1/4″ sections if you like. See Figure A.
This tip is from Book 2, Warping & Tying On New Warps