 Establishing the path is a simple matter of carrying the guide string back and forth to measure out your warp’s length. Any arrangement can be made as long as all the warp threads measure out equally along the length of the guide string and there are pegs for the leases at each end.  See Figures A, B, and C. If you warp your loom from back-to-front you need two leases‹-front-to-back warping uses just one.Whether you make one lease or two, it’s more efficient to use the pegs sequentially, up to the length you need, like in Figure D rather than randomly.
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The pegsI recommend that you have 4 pegs for each lease. You need two pegs to make a lease and, ideally, they are not involved with the end peg–that equals 3 pegs. However, it may be necessary (and is a good idea generally) to use a fourth peg–read about the angle of the path, below.
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The angleIt’s critical to keep the angle of the thread path as flat as possible as it approaches both leases. Otherwise, the lengths of the warps you measure on the “top” half of the lease will differ from the warps you measure on the “bottom” half of the lease (see Figure E). You can avoid this problem if you can bring all the threads around an extra peg before the lease pegs. By gathering the threads together at the extra peg, before getting involved in the lease pegs, you ensure they’ll all be the same length. Figure A shows what I mean. This is why I said I recommend 4 pegs for the leases‹you will never have the “angle” problem that way. The fourth peg allows the warp to change direction on the warping board without changing the angle the threads take as they leave the leases. Notice the fourth pegs, or turning pegs, in Figure A. If you don’t have an extra peg, place the guide string so that it leaves the last peg with as little angle as possible. See Figure C.
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Taken from “Weaving for Beginners” and Book 1: “Winding a Warp and Using a Paddle“
Oct.27, 2014: I want to measure a 23 yard warp on my warping board, which may only accommodate 12 yards… or, can I wind back again and call the roundtrip “one”? Seemed possible, but then there are the crosses/leases to think of… Help!
That won’t work. You could try to rig up pegs and a path on a large table with C-lamps or warping pegs. If this is something you plan to do more than once, think about buying a larger board or mill. Or ask your guild members to lend one to you. Try looking on eBay, too. I describe Warping Pegs in my book, Weaving for Beginners.
I have beem having a reoccurring problem. when I take my warp off the board the first threads are looser creating an uneven tension. I am not leaving my warp on the board for very long at all and cant figure out why this is happening! Do you have any advice?
I think you are putting the warp on the pegs with too much tension. As the more threads accumuate they are bending the pegs slightly and then the first warps are loose because they are longer. From my book, Weaving for Beginners under the heading :Some important notes as you are warping:” The first note is “As you measure the threads, be conscious of their tension. Even tension, but not a lot of tension, is what you’re after. Too much tension will bend the pegs.” What do you think?
Peggy
Peggy,
Why does my cotton warp always develop twists and threads don’t go through the lease sticks easily? I end up with a tangled mess in front of the lease sticks. I warp back to front b
I wonder if the thread is unbalanced. Is it a singles? (not plied? Does this happen only with that one cotton thread? Unbalanced threads are discussed in all of my book except Book #1, Winding a Warp & Using a Paddle. check the web for information if you don’t have any of my other books. Let me know which book(s) you have and I’ll check which info you are missing for how to deal with them. Basically, avoid them if possible, but you can manage them. I think I’ll put info in a blog post in the future.
Peggy