 At one end of the warp is the cross (lease) you’re familiar with: the thread-by-thread lease that keeps the threads in their precise order and from which you thread the heddles. At the opposite end of the warp is the raddle lease, which is formed with groups of threads. This lease is used for filling the raddle. See figures A and B. 
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When measuring the warp and using a paddle, a “false” lease develops next to the threading lease; when warping one thread at a time, a false lease develops next to the raddle lease. Neither of these false leases are needed, nor can they be avoided. But they can’t be used either, so be sure to use the real lease and not the false one. Instead of cutting the end loops when removing the warp from the reel or warping board, tie two ties at each end of the warp through the end loops.If you don’t cut your warps, you avoid knots on the warp beam that distort your warp during beaming. Not only that, ties at each end hold the end loops intact and in order. See Figures D and E.
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 Use the raddle cross (also called raddle lease) to load the raddle quickly and efficiently.
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Use the thread-by-thread cross (lease) to thread the heddles. This setup is efficient and prevents threading mistakes.
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More information is in Weaving for Beginners, Book #1: Winding a Warp & Using a Paddle, and Book #2 Warping Your Loom & Tying On New Warps.
How do you handle two colors in the raddle cross – D,L,D.L, etc.? I am having to manipulate the ends as I put them through the heddles and wonder if there is an easier way.
Thanks
I think you’re talking about the threading cross. You can have two threads together in the threading cross (d,l) but NO MORE THAN THAT. In the raddle cross you would just keep whatever you should–the d,l shouldn’t make a difference. Then, yes, pick from the threading cross the dark or the light as required. Let me know if this answers your question.
Peggy
I forgot to include a raddle cross. Is there a way to work around that?4
Yes. Load the raddle using the regular cross.
Thanks Peggy. Just wasn’t sure there was some “trick” I was missing. It is working out. Kathy
I accidentally ended up with two crosses on one end of my warp. They butt up to one another so the question is which one do I use. They are at the end of the warp.
Just be sure to NOT use the false cross. Probably a good idea to put lease sticks in both to make sure that you use the true, accurate coss before eliminating (remove the sticks) the cross you don’t need.
hi Peggy, I am weaving a project with 14/2 cotton threads which to my weak eyes, are pretty fine. will it ruin my project if the lease crosses have one or two ends more (or less) than they should (e.g., a 60 epi with 30 ends in each 1/2″ saddle space sometimes may have 29 ends or 32 ends)/. thanks!
Greg
No, not at all. but never try to divide up a 1/2″ section. With that many epi you might want to get a warp comb with 5 or 6 dents per inch. I have both and that covers most setts. You can order them at Gowdy Reed. http://www.gowdyreed.com. They make them to order.
I told my students not to let the cross (lease) rule you. If there are little mistakes, you can use your judgement.
Wonder what you are making?
Peggy
hi Peggy, I am making a set of double-weave placements “window-pane” design. the only problem I had was that for some reason, warp threads became twisted (within some of 1/2″ raddle spaces. my next attempt at this will be two have two threading crosses, one at the beginning and one instead of the raddle cross. in this way, I’m hoping that within each raddle space, the warp threads will not cross as I wind on – giving me a full shed. thanks for your terrific advice!
I forgot to include a raddle cross. Is there a way to work around that?