| Tie the warp on either side of each end peg. Then put four ties to secure each lease. These ties go on each side of both pegs holding the lease. See Figure A. If you’re warping threads individually, a false lease forms between the next-to-the last and last peg at the raddle end. Check that you’re tying off the pure, X-shaped leases. Don’t confuse them with the false leases that are X-shaped, but outlined by threads. If you used three pegs at each end, you’ll tie two ties at all three pegs, which means you’ll be tying the false lease, too. That’s fine–as long as you tie off the true lease.
|
| When you tie, use bow or half-bow knots so you can take the ties out easily later. See Figure B.For safety, use one color to tie all the bows on the tops of the pegs, and another color to tie the bows underneath the pegs. By color-coding your ties this way, you’re less likely to twist the warp later.
|
| Tie very tight choke ties every yard or so for the length of the warp. See Figure A below. Choke ties stop tangles before they happen, and also help keep tension even. Use a different color from the lease ties-that way there’s no danger of untying the wrong ties later. Make sure to tie one choke tie about two feet from the raddle lease. For choke ties do their job, they must be tied very tight around the warp. The warps should be pinched tightly together at the point of the tie so that no single warp threads can slip past the tie.
|
 To make a choke tie tight, take a strong string around the warp twice and pull the ends tight.  Then tie a 1/2 bow on top of the warp at that spot. You can feel the string “bite” into the warps when you do that first step of going around the warp twice. See Figures B, C, and D.
|
This is an excerpt from Peggy’s new book Book #1: Winding a Warp and Using a Paddle and Weaving for Beginners
|