Hemstitching on the loom
I have just published my most popular tip as a Kindle booklet: Peggy’s Weaving Tips: Hemstitching! It is an enhanced version of the tip plus a gallery of hemstitching variations. It is available for download on Amazon for $2.99. Of course it can be viewed on all Kindle readers and on most smart phones, tablets, and computers if you install the free Kindle reading app on your device. Watch for more eBooks on weaving tips. Any suggestions for tips?
This is one of the hand manipulated weaves in my new book, “Weaving for Beginners”
This hand sewing is done while the cloth is still on the loom and is easy to do while the warp is under tension. Many weavers prefer to do it then because they don’t have to hand- or machine-stitch the cut ends after the cloth is off the loom (and before finishing the cloth). They may or may not cut off the stitches later, depending on what the edge is to look like when the fabric is complete. It’s a big time saver when you want to have fringe on the edge because there is no knotting of the fringe needed-all you need to do is to leave enough unwoven for the fringe(s). Note: The instructions for hemstitching at the beginning of the cloth are a little different from those for the stitching at the end of the cloth.
When you are weaving several pieces, hemstitching the edges to be cut later saves a lot of time because neither hems nor additional stitching needs to be done. Placemats, for example, can be hemstitched on the loom and then cut apart and finished right after they are off the loom. Hemstitching the edges of your samples on the loom can save time too.
Use a size thread that will be unobtrusive for the hemstitching. Often, the weft thread is all right to use, but I’ve seen hemstitching that was too bulky because the thread for the stitches was too heavy.
How to hemstitch
Many stitches are called “hemstitches.” Besides different ways to do the stitching, the stitches themselves can be different. Here is one that does the job of holding in the wefts and is quick and easy. See Figures.
The process is only slightly different at the beginning of the fabric and at the end of it. The instructions are given for right-handed people who will always work starting at the left selvedge and work toward the right. Work from the right toward the left if you are left-handed.
At the Beginning To hemstitch the beginning of a fabric, on the first weft of the fabric, leave a long tail of weft hanging from the left edge of the cloth. The tail should be 2½ to 3 times the width of the warp. It will be threaded into a tapestry needle and used to do the stitching after a few more rows of weaving are completed. See Figure 1a.  After weaving an inch or a bit more, thread the weft tail into a tapestry needle. The blunt point on the needle prevents you from pricking your finger and piercing the threads. Some methods prefer to pierce the threads to make the stitching more secure. See Figure B. |
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 Begin stitching by holding the weft taut at the selvedge with the left hand. With the needle in the right hand, hover over 1/4″-3/8″ worth of warp threads, then go straight down between the warps and come out at the selvedge. Tug this stitch so that it wraps around the warps and cinches them up into a bundle.  Point the needle straight up (away from you) along the selvedge for 3 wefts, take the needle down through the cloth there, and come out again through the opening you just made by cinching up the warp bundle. Read below for what to do with slippery threads.  Continue on with the next stitch. Hold the weft in the left hand taut and go around the next group of warps (coming out again in the previous opening), tug the stitch to make a bundle, go straight up three wefts, poke the needle down through the cloth, and come out at the opening you just made by cinching up the bundle. Repeat until you reach the right selvedge. My left hand holds the weft taut and does the tugging. It is engaged at all times while the right hand works the needle. At the right selvedge, darn (needle weave) the tail into the cloth 1/2″, so it doesn’t show, and cut off the remainder of the tail flush with the cloth. |
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At the end At the end of the fabric, make the last weft come out at the left selvedge. Leave a long tail on the last weft (2½ to 3 times the width of the warp) and thread it through the tapestry needle. (Figure F.)  Begin stitching by holding the weft thread tail taut in the left hand, and with the right hand, go around 1/4″- 3/8″ worth of warps, coming out at the selvedge as you did at the beginning of the fabric.  Point the needle straight toward you, for 3 wefts into the cloth; then poke the needle down through the cloth and come up in the space just made when you cinched up the bundle of warps. Notice that now you’ll be poking your needle into cloth, which will be toward you. When you were stitching into the cloth at the beginning of the fabric, the cloth was away from you. See Figures.
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| For slippery threads, stagger where you dig in your needle, to make the stitches more secure. If they always go in after the third weft, the whole hemstitched edge could fall off during finishing. You can dig your needle in alternating between the third and fourth wefts-it looks deliberate, and the stitching doesn’t pull out. |
The above tip is an excerpt from Book 3: “Weaving and Drafting Your Own Cloth” and “Weaving for Beginners” |
Thank you, thank you for the easily understood directions for both the beginning and the ending of the piece on the loom.
I’m glad they were understandable. I worked on that a lot. thanks for letting me know.
Peggy
Thank you for the clarity of this VERY instructive and helpful post for me. I am a small loom weaver – rigid heddle and other basic relatively inexpensive looms, This is my choice and delight as space and budget are small but find the looms are only limited by my lack of imagination:0) I had not considered actually hemstiching on the loom so thank you for this real light bulb moment.
I hadn’t thought of it for small looms, either. It seems very perfect. Good for your imagination and thanks for mentioning it.
Peggy
I am new to weaving-4 months-and acquired an older 4-harness Structo Artcraft table loom.. After a couple of months getting oriented my wife-a knitter and weaver in her own right-bought me your book “Weaving for Beginners”, 2010 and I have found it to be easily read and understandable. I struggled with the hemstitching and after re-reading your section a couple of times I finally got it.
“The illustrations are also invaluable and well done.
Ron in Sumner, WA.
Thanks, greatly, greatly. You are just who I wrote the book for. I didn’t do hemstitching until fairly recently, so I had to make the illustrations so I could follow them (I still do).
Peggy
This is really useful, thank you, I shall try it on my next weave.
Zara, UK
Thanks Peggy; I think I did it right today, at least it looks like it will hold on my shawl; thanks again.
Oh my goodness I finally get it, I have struggled with this for years, extremely well written, thank you thank you
I always worried that I couldn’t do it so I wrote it so I could do it and I look at it whenever I need it even now. Peggy
Can the extra warp fringe at the beginning and end now be cut flush with the edge of the hemming for a completely finished edge?
No, no it can’t be cut off flush. Some fringe is still needed. You were right to ask because i sense you knew it wouldn’t be ok to cut off all the warps. You might try threading a warp end in a needle and threading it invisibly back into the cloth. do this as often as needed… probably very often. I can’t promise this will allow you to cut off the fringe flush but you can use your judgement. If you want to cut off the end flush, what would you think of putting some iron-on interfacing on the back and then cutting? Somehow the last weft needs to be protected.
Hi Mrs.Peggy I’m trying to learn how to make outside rugs with the brown on top? C as n you tell me what I need?
I don’t have enough information. You need to tell me all about your project, ideas, pattern, materials, etc. etc. etc.
Peggy
Thanks, I am new to this craft and trying to learn on my own. This is just what I needed.
I am also learning on my own. These are the best instructions I have seen and am ready to try it on my own project right now. Thanks.
I have been weaving for a while, but love your book. Weaving for Beginners.
I would like to join your website.
To become a subscriber, go to the website and on the first page, go to the upper right hand corner and follow the instructions. it will ask for your email address. thanks for asking. Peggy
Generally yes but be sure you feel the hemstitching is securely holding in the weft threads before finishing.
I’m still confused. If I hemstitch on the loom is this secure enough to hold my warp threads when cutting it off the loom? I have made several things and fringed most of them and did a turned and stiched hem on two of them.. I’d like to try a different hem. Is this a hem that will need nothing else when I cut if off the loom? I have the learn to weave book and it shows a picture of this but not in detail. I want to make sure I’m understanding whether this is actuall a hem or for some other purpose.
It is not a hem. It is to be used with fringe.
It is meant to be all you need to do with a fringe. You cannot cut off the warp threads close to the hemstitching and expect it to be a finished edge. The fringe probably doesn’t have to be very long, however. You want to be sure to stagger the stitches so they do not always go into the cloth between the same threads. Also, if the threads are slippery, pierce the threads when you enter the needle. You can use your judgement. I think my tip has more than one picture–certainly in my book Weaving for Beginners there are two pages of illustrations–what you do at the beginning of the weaving and what you do at the end.
To answer you exact question. Yes the hemstitch is secure enough to hold your warp threads when cutting it off the loom –if you have some fringe, if you pierce the threads if needed and if you stagger the depth of the stitches. You could use another thread for the hemstitching if you feel that it would be more secure–i.e. grab and hold the threads better. You must use your judgement and not try to push the procedure with unsuitable stitching or threads.
Does this make it more clear?
Let me know what you are not sure of and I will try more explanation. Have you checked all the illustrations in my tip?
Ceci m’aidera à finir mes pièces. Merci!
Bonjour, moi je viens de Fermont au QC et je débute à tissé. Ma question est comment fait-on pour faire des franges sur les 4 cotés sur une nappe qui n’est plus sur le métier. sinon comment la coudre au moulin à coudre et là aussi je suis novice. merci
Il suffit de couper les lisières et de tirer les fils apparents pour faire votre frange! J’espère que vous avez mon livre Weaving For Beginners que je l’ai écrit pour vous. Je recommande de télécharger la version PDF, car fouetter au Canada coûte cher. Consultez mon site Web: https://peggyosterkamp.com/weaving-books-dvd/
Peggy
What do I do if I forget to leave a thread tail at the beginning of my weaving? Thanks!
I did that once, too. I took a length of thread and needle-wove the end into the web invisiably then did my hemstitching–pretending I’d left the thread in all along. Good luck!
Peggy
Peggy, your explanation of how to hemstitch is the absolute best I’ve found…and I did a lot of researching! I am a new weaver and this helped me tremendously with my first project (4 placemats). Your explanation is thorough but concise, and your excellent illustrations made each step crystal clear. I think I need to get your book now! Thank you for unselfishly helping out your fellow weavers!
I made several towels that I was planning on hand hemming. however as a new wear and learning on my own, I did not think about hem stitching between them nor do I have a sewing machine to sew ends before cutting them apart. What do you recommend that I do? should I cut apart and hem quickly and hope for the best or is there a stick I can do that will hold my ends enough for me to hem by hand? Thank you-
Put on Fraycheck where plan to cut. Let dry. cut. should work and not unravel.
Peggy
Peggy, I use your instructions frequently for finishing work with a smooth end. Can you tell me, how secureis this end? Will it hold up through repeated washes and prevent the unraveling of the weave, even if the warp is cut near the weave? Or should edge be folded and sewn as a finishing?
You should turn it under and sew. It’s enough to hold if there is fringe. The reason to do it if no fringe is to keep it from unravelling until you can make a hem. I just did it and cut the ends short and put Fray Check on the hemstitches plus a 1/2″ of fringe. Then I’ll turn it under and sew it down..
Peggy
Thank you for your instructive advice. Megan
Your instructions and diagrams are great.
But my placemats are already off the loom. Can I just use my sewing machine to straight stitch one inch on either side of my cutting line and have one inch fringe? Will that hold? Should I use a special sewing machine stitch? Special thread? Stitch twice? I can’t seem to find information on how to make a “raw” fringed edge.
Thanks!
Don’t straight stitch along a single weft. ZigZag so as many threads as possible can be pierced by stitches to hold the piece from falling apart at the ends.
Peggy
Thank you, I learned to do this in a class but when I tried again after a couple of months I could not remember how. I looked all over online and yours were by far the best instructions – I was done in just a few minutes.
Now that’s really a compliment. Thank you so much. For years I never tried it, but then I learned this simple method. I look it up when needed because I use the technique so rarely these days.
Peggy