This is a weaving trick for sett used in industry: a balanced looking fabric is actually a bit more warp predominant than precisely balanced. It looks balanced at a glance, but upon inspection, you will see that there are more warps per inch than wefts per inch. We handweavers can use this principle, too. And I almost always do when I want a generally balanced weave. The way to achieve this is to take 80% of the maximum sett using the Ashenhurst method.
Why it’s so wonderful to weave with a slightly closer warp sett:
In general, whenever I’m debating between two numbers for a sett, I’ll choose the denser number for the above reasons. That means, if I were debating between 6 and 8 epi, I’d tend to choose the higher number of 8. If I’m weaving an open shawl, however, I want it more open than the 80% number, for sure. Of course, my sample will be the ultimate test. When you don’t want to use the 80% figureYou need to account for the texture of the thread when you are considering how low a sett to choose (minimum sett). Hairy yarns wouldn’t be good for the 80%. Woolens are meant to shrink, so the 80% wouldn’t work for them either. Smooth, slippery silk or rayon threads need to be sett closer than 80% (more warps per inch) than woolens because the slippery yarns will create unwanted spaces after you wash your cloth (called slippage), spaces that hairy yarns would fill up. |
More information in Weaving for Beginners and Book #1: Winding a Warp & Using a Paddle.
I’m trying to figure weft amount needed for a scarf but don’t know how to get the PPI. The yarn is probably no longer produced but it is pearl cotton OPERA, 50g/230m, made in Portugal by COATS and has a fairly tight twist. I did a wrap at 36 wpi, I’d like to weave a twill so thought of setting it at 22-24 epi but have no idea how many PPI I would get. Is there a way of at least approximating the PPI without having to do a sample? There is an estate sale tomorrow with tubs and tubs of yarn and I’d like to take advantage of this but only if I know how much of a specific yarn I would need for a project.
Many thanks, Donna