Note: This warp is made of commercially made paper threads. My spun paper will be for the weft.
Here is my raddle clamped to the top of my loom with all the warp threads are in their dents. I have 2 special raddles—a 5-dents per inch and a 6. Good for fine threads when ½” spaces are too wide. I’m using my 6-dent raddle here.
Today began with taking the warp off the warping reel and winding it on a stick like a kitestick. This keeps all the threads under tension so they can’t tangle.
Here the sticks are in place: An end stick and the lease sticks. The ties haven’t been removed yet. This is to check to be sure the sticks are in the correct spaces.
Loading the raddle from the group cross made when winding the warp. This should make loading the raddle a piece of cake. There are three threads in the group cross I made for the raddle. Ie there are 3 threads in each space of my 6-dent raddle.
These paper threads are wild. I’m glad for all my choke ties I made in the warp! (You can see the kitestick in the back. Only enough warp is unwound for loading the raddle.)
These paper threads are REALLY wild and jumpy! I’m glad for all the production weaving techniques I learned from Jim Ahrens and put in my books! Remember what he told me: “The only thread that can’t tangle is one under tension.”
Watch out! Weaving for Beginners is being reprinted for the 4th Edition—with a few additions!
Hi Peggy, thank you for sharing this process! Two questions- is one of your reeds a metric reed? And the other is when you remove the warp from the warping board do you always use the kitestick method over chaining? Many thanks in advance, love following along 🙂
Yes I always use a kitestick instead of chaining. You can see how messy these threads would be if the warp were chained. I didn’t know that until I unwound some of the kitestick. It’s in my beginners book with detailed illustrations. It doesn’t have to be perfectly done but winding it on the stick as I take it off the warping reel keeps the threads from tangling.
The other question: I’m not using a reed–It’s a raddle used in back to front warping. Usually made with nails 1/2″ aparrt. These are made by reed makers but have no top. My beginner book gives directions for front to back as well as back to front.
Peggy
Thank you for all your emails on your trips, tips and tricks. I have learned a lot from them. I wanted to ask what is that reed you are using? It doesn’t have a top.
Thank you,
Mary
It’s not a reed. It’s a raddle. It is needed when you warp back to front. Most are made with nails 1/2″ apart so this is special.
Peggy
I am fascinated about using paper thread, however won’t the paper warp threads break under tension?
It’s very strong I never doubted it. There are lots of different paper threads so these seem fine. Good question1
Peggy
Looks crazy challenging!
You are high octane as Martin Davis used to say about Virginia. I am wondering what kind of looms were used to weave the kimono and chinese garb of ancient times as well as the luxe fabrics of the French court etc. If anyone would know, you would. Thank you and stay well.
That’s very cool.
My Son and his wife brought me back paper thread from Japan.
I’m not sure what I can weave with it ?
What are you weaving ?
Thank you
It’s very washable I’m told. I soaked my 1st sample in hot water, then ironed it dry. I read just “wash it”. It should be able to be used as clothing. One article made dish towels. I don’t make anything useful so will be experimenting with weaves and washablity and ART if nothing else, or a pile of samples. I’m wondering if it can be a dish cloth!! I’m going to try it out!
Peggy
Very cool. thank you for all your great information.