My first find at a flea market was this fragment of a Japanese fabric with gold threads. I immediately turned it over and yes! Gold leaf paper threads were there! (This end of the cloth shows the name of the weaving designer woven in. It shows that it was not machine made or mass produced.)
The reverse side showed floats on the wrong side that were definitely strips of “gold paper”.
Here is a close up of the right side of the fabric where gold areas can be seen woven in the brocade.
At the edges you can see that the wefts were individual strips of the gold “threads”. Look closely at some of the edges of the previous photos and you can see the ends of the wefts sticking out.
In a dusty junk shop I saw this bundle and knew what it must be. Fine strips of gold paper cut and attached at the ends ready to be woven into a brocade. The “threads” were really long for a very wide warp I realized. The strips would be pinched off one weft at a time and a special hook would be used by the weaver to pull it through the shed. Special artisans would do the gold leaf process, then someone else would be the one to cut the thin strips.
Here is a close up of the cut threads still attached to the edge of the gold leaf paper.
Here is a bundle of shorter threads. It would be for a much narrower cloth—perhaps an obi. (On my first trip to Japan I saw this demonstrated by a woman weaving an obi. She gave me some threads and the hook that would be used-treasures I still have.)
Astonishing!
Thank you, Peggy, for sharing your treasures, adventures, and knowledge. Your emails are like invitations, or inspirations, to explore the world through the eyes of a weaver.
Well said.
Wow absolutely amazing. Thank you for sharing
Fascinating— now I am wondering how they cut the strips and managed to keep it all organized. Beautiful cloth. What a fabulous flea market find!
Lookat the paper cut see that they are all still attached to the paper at the ends. Only one at a time is released and put through the shed with a long wooden hook. Does this explain?
Peggy
Thanks, Peggy. It explains a bit, but I am curious about cutting the thin strips and keeping them so uniform. You mentioned it was done by someone who specialized in it. I think I might have to do some experiments— but maybe not with gold leaf!
The book I showed explains cutting but my strips are about 1/4″ or a tad less. I used an exacto knife and metal ruler and a cutting mat. The mat has measurement markings which I used mostly. Don’t experiment with gold leaf for sure. The paper needs to be a bit fibrous–not magazine paper.
Peggy
Do you know how to use those hooks that pull the paper through? I have a wooden one with a little bit of the hook on the end. Do you grab a little bit of the paper strip folded over itself and pull through? Seems like this would slip off too easily.
I have a skein of silver wrapped silk that got hopelessly tangled when I tried to unreel it. So I ended up cutting it and now have a thousand strings I can easily pull out of the straightened bundle. I was wondering if I could use this hook to pull these individual strings through as I weave, similar to the paper strips…
I think the hook is the answer. I have a bad skein I cut, too. never thought of using my hook. Good idea. Haven’t mailed the velvets yet.
Peggy
amazing gold!!!
Great find for you. It is like a continuation of your trips to Japan. I feel another one coming up.
Hi Peggy — would you be able to post a photo of the hook? I have some of the paper strips that I purchased some years ago and would love to be able to try it in my weaving.
I did try an internet search but didn’t come up with anything.
I’ll send it to your email.
Peggy
Did you find these at flea markets in the U.S? Amazing, if so!
Flea markets in Japan. They have wonderful stuff.
Peggy
I was so moved gratitude and happiness when viewing the photos of the gold cloth and threads. I cannot thank you enough. Do you feel it?