What if you didn’t know about how to determine how many warp threads you need per inch for a project? In other words, the ends per inch or epi? And what if you just used the number of threads you wrapped on the ruler for your ends per inch? The warps would be close together with no space left for the wefts—this fabric is called a warp-faced fabric or warp predominant one.
Here is a close up of a woven piece by Thomasin Grim that is almost totally warp-face. That is, only the warps show and none of the wefts are visible. You can see a small area of balanced weave where both the warps and wefts show for comparison. More about that in a future post.
Here is a photo of the whole piece by Thomason Grim where it is mostly warp-faced.
This is an illustration from my book, Weaving for Beginners that shows that the warp threads are so close together that the weft barely shows. In future posts you’ll see the same yarns in balanced and weft-faced fabrics for comparison.
This article is very helpful and I love your Weaving for Beginners, which I just purchased.
I have been doing a lot of warp-faced weaving on my Inkle loom and would like to do the same on a floor loom.
An inspirational designer for me is Roger Oates. The company, based in the UK, makes flatweave stair runner carpets, cushion covers and beautiful bags. The stair runners look like a warp-facing weave to me. Would you agree? https://www.rogeroates.com/
Thanks for the Roger Oats link. Warp faced weaving is faster to weave so economical. My mentor, Jim Ahrens said”Weft faced weaving: can’t make any money that way.” Also, you can see what you are going to get–no weft to influence things! And thanks for your kind words.
Peggy