How To Get Weft-faced Weaving.

This rug is weft-faced. Many but not all rugs are. In this case the weft entirely covers the warp.

Here the same warp and weft yarns from the previous post are woven weft-face. Notice that the warps are farther apart and the wefts are close together in comparison with the previous example of warp-faced weaving.

In this diagram notice that the wefts bend, and the warps are straight. That is so the weftscan be beaten close together on straight warps. Increase the tension on the warp so the wefts will cover when beaten in.

To get enough weft in the sheds to cover the warps you usually need to bubble the weft. See the next illustrations.

Another step is to beat in the weft hard. This is a photo of young Peter Collingwood. His book, The Techniques of Rug Weaving is a cherished bible. Beat on the open shed as usual then close the shed and beat again and you might even beat again on the next shed to get the wefts to completely cover the warp. If you really want to do a lot of weft-faced weaving the Collingwood book is IT. My books only give the basics. I don’t weave weft-faced things. My mentor/teacher, Jim Ahrens said, “Weft faced! Can’t make any money that way!” So, I never took to it.

There are many weft-faced patterns you can make on a 4-shaft threading. This is woven with 2 colors.

The third technique for weft-faced weaving is to spread out the warps wider than usual. This is an elementary way to think about determining the sett: Use your ruler to wind both the warp and the weft threads together. Alternate the warp and weft threads on the ruler. Keep them flat. Be careful not to twist or stretch them, but still, push them together until they just barely touch. Finally, count only the warp threads in your inch to get the approximate sett. See the illustration. You probably will use a thicker weft yarn than a warp yarn. This is a way to get started. Of course, sampling is important on the warp you intend to weave on.

3 thoughts on “How To Get Weft-faced Weaving.”

  1. You show both S- and Z-twist yarns in your diagrams (which are always very nice and clear, btw!). Do warp and weft have to have the same twist direction, or can they be different? I’d guess that the two yarns won’t interact to produce an effect in the finished cloth, seeing as one is completely obscured by the other. Is this the case?
    (I’m a bit of an armchair weaver in that I don’t spend as much time weaving as I’d like; but your blog is always interesting and gets me thinking those “what if?” weaverly thoughts… Or more often, “My gosh, how did she think of that?!”)

    • Most all yarns are plied and are S twisted so not an issue normally with warp and weft. Single ply yarns are often Z . Plied Z are not easy to find so if you want to play with S & Z it’s an effort and special deal. It’s a problem when you unknownly get an overtwisted Z yarn. I found it once with linen. All the warp threads were twisted all over the place. Glad you are in your armchair and not facing the issue!


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