Another Item from My Book Back in Print
“If you can talk them out of tying on in front, you will be doing them a big favor.”
Jim Ahrens to Peggy in 1995
Here are the advantages and an excerpt from the chapter.
• You tie only one set of knots. The warps are automatically on tension, and you don’t need to waste time or yarn by tying onto an apron rod.
• Because the warps are always under tension they can’t tangle or break or invite mistakes. (When you pull loose, untensioned threads through the heddles, loops and snags are inevitable.)
• Keeping the threads under tension at all times is the key to pulling the knots through the heddles easily.
• You get a perfectly wound warp on the warp beam without any knots on the apron rod.
• You can accurately spread the warp on the warp beam. When working from the front, you wind the warp onto be beam after the knots are tied, using the reed as a guide to keep the warp spread to the right width. The reed is a long, long way from the warp beam, and as the knots pass through the heddles, the heddles can actually scatter the warps.
• With many looms, you can be much more comfortable tying at the back.
For the first few times at least, you’ll find tying the square knots much easier with a firm support to tie against. A board placed beneath the knot-tying area gives your thumb something to press the ends against while your fingers tie knots. It’s like having someone put their finger on the knot while you tie a bow! Later on, you may be able to tie the knots “in the air” without the support, but I still like to use one.
Position the board beneath the knot-tying area, midway between the back beam and the shafts. If your old warp is short, position the board closer to the shafts and adjust the warps so your knot-tying area is above the board.
Support the board on the side framework of your loom, or on lary sticks, or suspend it from long loops of string tied to the loom’s overhead structure. …
The top of the board should be on the same plane as the warps. It should be sturdy and in no danger of falling, so experiment with C-clamps and string, if you need to, to get a firm work surface.
Tying on a new warp behind the heddles at the back of the loom is better than sliced bread. I never had enough warp on my loom when tying on in the front and then the warp would just spin on the back beam and the effort lost.
Brilliant idea that I’ve been using since you introduced the idea last year.
THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!!!
Tying on at the back seems like the better method on a small loom, but how would you recommend tying on a new warp on an AVL or other large loom where it is difficult to iimpossible to reach over the back beam?
I’ve seen people work at the back of the loom and tie the knots. Brought the old warp back to meet the end of the new onw. Does that make sense? Otherwise can you send a photo of the back of your loom to refresh my memory? send to my personal email: peggy@peggyosterkamp.com
Peggy