This way to tie up your treadles is a fantastic gift that Jim Ahrens taught us. You’ll never have to tie up the treadles again on your 4-shaft looms. My looms were built by Jim; this tie-up is the only choice–because it’s so flexible. I love it and pass it along to you as my gift.
One tie up for four shaft looms
In Warping Your Loom & Tying On New Warps, (my book #2) beginning on page 69,
I described a tie-up that never needs to be
changed, for four shaft jack and counterbalance looms. You can get all the combinations possible with four shafts with this system. Your feet can dance over the treadles for many weaves, and if they aren’t dancing, they can work very efficiently. See Figure 6. Another advantage of this system is that you can change to any weave structure you want in a project without changing the ties to the treadles.
Thanks for the tie-up, Peggy! What if you have a 6 treadle loom and want to add a tabby tie-up? Is it best to put it in the middle or on the outside treadles, in your opinion?
No, no, no!! The extra treadles just get in the way and offer the chance for mistakes. To do tabby put your foot between the treadles and push 1&3 with one foot and 2&4 with the other. Then you can walk the treadles. Which two treadles to not hook up you can decide on depending on how your feet fit the treadles–and what’s comfortable. Getting comfortable helps avoid mistakes.
Thanks for both your comments. It’s wonderful to know you are checking out my posts. Let me know if you have questions you’d like me to address in the blog.
Thanks again,
Peggy
Hi Peggy! I aquired a 4-6 drop shaft floor loom that came frim Scotland and the owner didn’t know how to use it. I am having issues with the joined shafts , that is it has only four pullies at each end of the top beam , each with a karge and small pully , small on the bottom so the shafts 1 & 4 are joined and 2& 3 are joined . I cant work them sepeeately . Any ideas how I can midify it ? I bought 16 pullies to try to work it out but get stuck on the bottom part, not sure of the top either, havent started installin them yet. Any help is geately appreciated.
I think you need my book, Warping Your Loom & tying On Ne Warps. there’s a big and comprehensive section on dealing with counterbalance looms. It’s available on my website only as a pdf.
Peggy
http://www.peggyosterkamp.com
Hi
I have a 4 shaft 8 lamm 6 treadle countermarch loom I can not get them hooked
up and need help with shaft to the lamm to the treadle I am a new weaver the pattern is for plain weave.
thank you .
Countermarch looms are completely different animals. You need to check the loom’s manual. I have a whole chapter in one of my books to tell how to tie up all the cords for this type loom. “Warping Your Loom & tying On New Warps.”
High Peggy, I have a counter balance loom that’s about 60 years old , four shafts , and heddles with six treadles . Would the tie up be the same as above ? Thank You
YES. Be sure to use only FOUR treadles! Which two you decide not to use is up to your comfort–maybe the middle ones or the outside ones. NOT using 6 treadles is the point. they just get in the way and ruin the wonderfulness of this tie up.
Hello Peggy,
I’m a complete newbie tieing up for the first time my brand new loom which came this morning. I will have millions of questions I’m sure but so far my first is : Will Mr Ahrens tie up work for an eight harness ( and if yes, do I still use two of my 10 treadles for tabby)?
No, it’s only for 4 shafts. However, I think you should start with a simple project to get to know your loom and with 4 shafts, especially since you say you are a newbie. It’s important, very important to start simple –there will be enough to challenge you –and you might even please yourself. Don’t make it very wide or long, either. Sorry to be a dictator, but I feel strongly about it and I want you to be successful. Peggy
hola amigos! estoy buscando nuevos enhebrados y diseños para tejer en telar de cuatro cuadros,el que uso actualmente de el llamado “camino de rosas” y me permite tejer rombos y sargas,espero me puedan ayudar¡muchas gracias!!!! cecilia,BS As Argentina
I just saw the response above and thought I would try and translate a little – in case anyone can help Cecilia.
“Hello friends! I am looking for new threading plans and designs (treadling/peg plans?) for a four shaft loom. In particular something that is called Rosepath, that allows me to weave diamonds and twills. I hope you can help me. Thank you very much. Cecilia, Argentina.”
Is there anyone who would like to reply?
There are several possible tie ups to achieve different patterns so here is a page with several for your enjoyment!
All FOUR-SHAFT structures/tie-ups can be woven with this one tie-up. You will never need to change the tie up again and can change your mind as often as you like!
Hi, I’ve just seen this conversation in my search to find a way to increase the size of my shed. I bought a used 4-harness, 6 treadle jack loom and have just returned to weaving after many years off. I wonder if the previous owner’s tie-up is involved in my shed problem. The 4 center treadles are used, tied as 1,2,3 and 4. Would using your suggested tie-up improve the size of my shed?
“My”tie up won’t increase the size of your shed. I wonder if your warp tension is too high. You only need enough tension to get a shed and too tight can prevent the shafts to rise on jack looms. Also, you only need the height to be enough for the shuttle to pass.The tie up is really wonderful–you can treadle all the possible combinations without retying the treadles. I assume the previous owner had the lengths of the cords to the treadles correct, but you might check that. Very often it’s too tight tension on the warp threads.That can cause other problems, as well. Let me know what works. Peggy
I have opened a new sewing women’s workshop. I am teaching women and their daughters how to sew and how to weave on my J.L. Hammett counterbalance floor loom. Its a 4 harness, 6 treadle one. Problem regardless how I tie the treadles to the 4 lamms…they lock up and break all of my strings. I’ve tried whats written in the manual. I’ve tried other peoples photos I run across on line. I am at my whit’s end…I desperately need help. If you look up the photos on Google of J.L. Hammett floor looms…it brings only one up in black and white…and this is exactly what my loom looks like. PLEASE can someone help me tie them correctly so I can weave simple 36″ rugs…..I use heavy rug yarn….I’ve literally cried over this on and on….Thanks
Dakota in Ohio
Give me your address and I’ll send you a copy of my book, Warping Your Loom & tying On New Warps. In it is a thorough chapter of tying up counter balance, countermarch and jack looms. If you don’t mind I’ll send you a slightly dinged book without charge. If you can’t use it, you can send it back. The book is just about out of print so I would appreciate you sending it back, but only if you can’t use it. I’d love to have you have my book, Weaving for Beginners. I wrote it with you in mind–what I taught my students. For teachers, I give 40% discount–that would be $29.97. I’ll pay the shipping for both books if you want them now. I can send them priority mail so you can get them in a few days. I can then answer any more questions you might have easier if you have the books on hand. I hope I can help you out.
Peggy
Peggy:
I just looked at the books. I need the one for beginners, the one on warping on the warping board (does it include how to do the calculations for your project?), I need the warping from back to front of the loom as well….how much would all of your books I saw minus the collection you’ve done (ITS BEAUTIFUL!) I just cant afford that much right now. I live on SS permanent disability and it takes all I have to stand, bend, twist etc on these looms to attempt to teach new students. I broke two discs in my lower back and have a bulging one on the upper level, 7 abdomen surgeries, broken pelvis and a brain aneurysm….pathetic….but I give GOD literally thanks for every day I have and am living…I use my time wisely…teaching and helping others. There is no work in our community southern Ohio except for the Uranium (cancer producing plant) so this little non-retail shop is a women’s ministry to teach women here how to make products to sell on ebay to help take care of their families. Can you help me somehow I use my SS disability check for everything. I fund this ministry myself. No tithes etc.
Thank you,
Dakota LongSuffering (yes that really is my name-lol) I’m Greek Orthodox in my faith and lived as a novice sister this is the name I was given. My family is German, Cherokee and Scottish…LOL…what a combination…:)
This is great! Thank you. I am setting up my first loom, a four shaft, six treadle Hammett floor loom. Thre treadle tie ups have been driving me mad, and this set up seems so simple. Especially since we will only be doing basic patterns to begin with.
Peggy – This is exactly what I needed – for tying the treadles! I was gifted a 1970’s style LeClerc Nilus, 6 treadle, 4 harness 45″ floor loom and have it all put together but nothing actually showed how to tie the treadles. It’s been sitting in my dining room for 3 months and I’m a complete novice on it – scared to try it. At the same time I was gifted a warping loom which my hubby says is too big to set up, but I shall anyway lol
now that I can tie up my treadles, I can move forward and actually start working on it! I’ll let you know how I do 🙂 This is rather exciting….!!
First of all Peggy, thank you for sharing all your amazing weaving tips, ( I often come across your site when googling ) it’s so generous of you. I have found this post on tying up a Counterbalance loom invaluable. I am just about to own my very first counterbalance loom ( Lilstena 4shaft) I have not actually seen it yet and it will be dismantled, it was advertised as free to a good home! So I feel responsible for learning all about this type of loom. I could not find anything on tying up this loom until now. So excited to try out your method. Thank you again Peggy.
Thank you. I wrote it so I could learn how to do it myself. good luck. Peggy
Ps. Will let you know how I get on with the Listena counterbalance loom……
hello! I love this idea of tying up the loom but im having a bit of a problem.
I am a beginner and have a counterbalance loom. At the moment, shafts 1 &2 are on one side of the counterbalance piece and 3&4 are on the other side. Ive tied the pedals like your image but its not working!
Is this because I need two pieces of wood to counterbalance the shafts from? (I mean shaft1 on the first side and shaft 2 on the other. Then shafts 3 and 4 on a new counterbalance piece?)
Not sure if this makes sense… :/
Yes, you figured it out. There should be 3 rollers. the 1 above is what you describe. Then you need two below as you say 1 &2 on one roller and 3 & 4 on the other. With what you have now you can only get plain weave( which may be all you need for now. One treadle for 1,2 and the other for 3,4. The 3 rollers are shown on page 115 in my Book #2 which is soon to be out in pdf. Stay tuned to know when it will be available.
Peggy
so, once you have this tie up I see that most combinations are possible – as long as you can press two treadles with one foot – but then do you have to re-write the treadling patterns for your draft? I’m concerned that it could be a recipe for disaster if you look at some other draft.
You don’t have to change any thing in the draft. And usually you use two feet. Yes, sometimes you need to push two treadles with one foot. that isn’t hard if your feet or shoes aren’t very narrow. So if the draft says 1,3,4 you’ll push 1,3,4 using your feet on the appropriate treadles. Try practicing just by moving your feet on pretend treadles and you’ll see how it works. Let me know if you have any doubts or treadling that you question. Peggy
Hi Peggy, thanks for you great work. I would like to buy a copy of you pdf book when it comes out so could you add me to your list.
Many thanks
Colleen
Dear Colleen,
I don’t have a list but I’ll surely post it on the website. I just did the second printing so it will be awhile before I do the Weaving for Beginneers as a PDF. And I have a good inventory of books #1 and #3 as it stands now. thanks for asking. Maybe I’ll decide to offer them as hard copy and PDF down the line-.Peggy
Hello,
I am fairly new to the weaving world, just got a beautiful Nilus, Leclerc 4 harness, 6 treadle jack floor loom, as I have read here, seems like I am having similar trouble with understanding the set ups for the treadles as most here….I have many questions about the set ups and how often you change the set ups on the treadles, etc. I have not had any luck on finding any info on line as to help me have a better understanding on this particular process. I have learned quick a bit about my loom from a ton of you tube videos but here is where I have ran into a road block. All help greatly appreciated very much.
Yours Truly,
Debora
Hi Peggy, I was just looking at a draft for “huck ovals” or “huck squares” scarves that can be done on 4 shafts and either 4 or 6 treadles (see “Handwoven”, May/June, 2011, page 64). The 4 treadle calls for “walking tie-ups”. I have a 4 shaft/4 treadle HD loom and always use “direct tie-ups” (it has no lams). I have the shafts tied in 1, 2, 3, 4 order. Is there an advantage to re-tying them to be 1, 3, 4, 2 as you show in your diagram 6? Is “walking tie up” just another name for “direct tie up”?
Walking means alternating feet–right- left-right-left, etc. It makes for efficient weaving and good balance. Whether your treadling plan will “walk” easily, I don’t know. Try it just moving your feet while sitting in a chair or on your bench before you actually change the tie up. Try the special tie up to see how a twill (and many, many weaves) treadle with this special tie-up that Jim Ahrens devised. Go 1,2 2,3 3,4 4,1 and your feet will dance. A direct tie up is anything where just one shaft is tied to one treadle. So, the tie-up I suggest is a direct tie up. That’s the way my loom is made so I do everything that way. I tried out the treadling while in the bathtub a long time ago. I still think of that experience! What a revelation is was. Peggy
Thanks, Peggy. I will try the walking tie-up (1,3,4,2) with a direct tie up. So that means (I think?) for a basic twill of 1,2 2,3 3,4 and 4,1 would only have to move 1 foot each time instead of both like I do now. It may take me some time to adjust, but I think it may be easier in the long run and may eliminate some of the rocking motion I get now. I’ll keep you posted.
I have acquired a beautiful loom made by Eugene Robocker from Kalispell, MT. It is called the Original Allen Loom. It is a counterbalance..(I think).. with 6 treadles and 4 shafts. I am having trouble learning how to tie it up correctly. I have seen your beginning diagram and I hope it will help. I have threaded it as 4321 from right to left. I tried treadling as follows” # 1 shaft up with #2,3,4 down, then # 2 shaft up, with #341 down, then #3 shaft up with #412 up, and finally #4 up, with #123 down… The top facing fabric looks good, but the back has a lot of floats in it… I am use to a jack loom, where I would use a single point twill where I could put up 1 and 2(two side by side shafts) at the same time… so it is confusing on the Allen Loom… Any help is appreciated.
Why don’t you try tying 2 shafts to a treadle like for a jack loom? If it is a counterbalance loom as you think, if you tie two shafts (eg. 1 & 2) to a treadle, when you press the treadle, those 2 shafts will go DOWN and the other 2 shafts (3,4) will automatically go UP. If it is a countermarch loom, you must tie all four shafts to each treadle: the ones to go UP and the ones that go DOWN. There are lams that are for going up and others for going down. Try the first option to see if you have a counterbalance loom. If two go up when you press a treadle that has two tied to it to go down, you have a counterbalance. If that doesn’t work, can you email me a photo of the loom? I’m not sure why you are trying to tie only one shaft to a treadle in the first place. Counterbalance looms like to have 1/2 the shafts up and 1/2 down for the sheds. I think the floats you don’t like are what you would normally get with a jack loom if you were treadling a 1/3 twill (one up and 3 down). So, I guess I need more information. Let me know. Peggy
Thank you for your helpful response. I was reading your info on how to tie up for a better treadling… but as I look at it once more, I see that your diagram is for a jack loom.. My mistake.. The Allen Loom is definitely a counter balance loom.. but when I tie it up as 1&3 and 2&4… these do work correctly, but when trying to tie up for a 2/2 twill I am having problems.. nothing seems to work correctly. I guess I just need to think about it for awhile on what treadles to tie together to make the others come up..
Thanks
Diana
So I tied them up correctly…3/4, 1/4,1/2, 2/3… but I do notice that the bottom of the shafts are hitting (coming to rest) on the cross beam located directly under the shafts. When this happens, the cord which is attached to the DOWN shafts has a buckle in it from resting on the cross beam. Sometimes, this then does not let one of the UP shafts come up high enough to pair with the second UP shaft in the 2/2 twill. Could the cords have stretched with age? If so, how do I know the correct length of the cords attached to shaft 1 and 2…. 3 and 4?
Diana, Eugene’s wife, Catherine “Jean” Robocker, is still living in Kalispell. Her father was Arthur Allen, who originally built the Allen Folding Looms. If you check directory assistance, you should be able to find her, or she is on Facebook. She used to weave and likely could give you some hands-on assistance.
Thanks, Peggy for posting this method. I’m glad I discovered your site. I’ve just recently found that direct tie-up is far better for my projects on my particular loom. I weave on a 45″ Nilus Leclerc 1975 vtg. 6 treadle 4H loom. I’m using my handspun wool now almost exclusively, am trying singles now on the loom, and am finding the ins and outs of doing that. One of the things I found is that wool singles stick more readily if I tie the treadles up to the lamms, even with starch. Working on a twill, if I raise 1,2 I get 3,4 along for the ride halfway up, etc. Changed to direct tie-up 1,2,3,4 and the threads don’t stick any more, even without starch sizing, as I can raise and lower the harnesses individually; all threads clear every time. It was just a guess on my part to do this as I was getting very frustrated with the sticky warp. I will try the 1,2,4,3 tie-up also and see how this works on this loom.
Hi. I have inherited a 45″ countermarche Finnish loom. There is no manual with it, so I’ve relied on guild members and YouTube videos and have managed to put it together. The action seems right, but the upper lamms collide with the lower lamms when I walk the treadles. Is this normal? If not, how do I avoid it? I thought I’d ask you, because I’ve pestered the guild members enough already! Thanks, Kristen
I put in my book, Warping Your Loom & Tying on New Warps everything I knew/learned about countermarche looms. It’s not in print but available as a PDF on my website. There is a big chapter on adjusting looms and how each type works. Is it a Toika loom? If so, they are a bit different. Check them out at the web. Su Butler is the person who writes about them on her website.
Thank you, I’ll check that out. It isn’t a name-brand loom, but hand built many years ago “after the Finnish style” for a Finnish woman. That’s all I know about it. I raised my upper lamms and lengthened the ties and things seem to be working better now, but I’m sure it could be improved on. Thanks again for your reply.
Can you recommend a good string for tying up shafts that is strong and doesn’t untie itself? Thank you!
Texsolv cord is great. You need to get the pins to go with it. The Woolery has it and probably all shops.
I have a 4 shaft loom and the constant re-tying is frustrating me! The shafts have little eye hooks and the treadles have eyehooks. I’ve tried heavy clothesline (it stretches!) and small chain with “S” hooks (which are hard to put on). HELP!
When you tie up the treadles this way you will never, ever have to tie them in any other way because you can get every combination of shafts possible with 4 shafts.You will use both feet sometimes. I suggest you use Texsolv cord. If your chains and S hooks work, once you tie them you’ll be all set for good. My 4-shaft loom has only 4 treadles. I love this tie up because I can easily change my mind and never have to re-tie the treadles.
Just purchased a four shaft with 4 treadles table loom and your method of tie up is great . Thank you!
Thanks Peggy. I’m just coming down the home stretch with an antique counterbalance without lams. The shed is sort of okay, but erratic. Question 1: Does your book cover troubleshooting counterbalance? Question 2: Your diagram shows each tieup going straight up and tying off center (by different amounts) to the shaft. Doesn’t this get everything out of balance?
Yes about counterbalance questions are in my book available by PDF, Warping Your Loom & tying On New Warps. The diagram on tying up treadles is a scheme for tying the treadles–looms differ with lams, etc. about what happens next. this is just the treadle part. Peggy
Ms. Peggy does this method work with four heddles 6 treadles ? If you’ve seen the Newcomb Studio Art Loom this is pretty much what i have except the pulley rollers are fixed as mind hang in the breeze . But when I got some of the Heddle ropes / lines were off the treadles … Please Help if you can … Also I would be very much interested in any of your writings . I also have a Inkle Heddle Loom , And a 32 inch Ashford Ridgid Heddle Loom , Right know i’m play around with the idea of making 4 string Heddles using dow rods … And that’s a hair puller .. lol pick up 1 skip 3 , pick up 2 skip 3 pick up 3 skip 3 pick 4 skip 3 … well i’ve made it to 2 twice and fixing to try it a third time .. grrrrr … lol Thank you very much .. And I think i read some where ya’al were in asia somewhere … Great Place stay safe …
The point here is to use ONLY 4 treadles–then you are never stuck with a tie-up. You can do all the 14 possible combinations with this tie up and often by walking the treadles. My books are about regular looms, and do not deal with people’s engineering different ways. Inventing is certainly a wonderful idea so I don’t discourage you. I only have an introductory chapter for rigid heddle looms. All the rest is for floor looms and table looms. You might be interested in the engineering that Jim Ahrens did when he build his looms. He followed the centuries-old methods of weaving efficiently (eg. for the sails on sailing ships that were hand woven, of course.) Check out the website I made about his looms’ details and how to use them: ahrenslooms.com Peggy
Hi Peggy I have one of your books Weaving for beginners , What other books would you recommend for beginners ? With a counter balance loom , 47 inches Thank You
Hi Peggy I have one of your books Weaving for beginners , What other books would you recommend , For older counter balance loom , Thank You
You definitely need “Warping Your Loom & Tying On New Warps” now it is only available as a PDF. You can download it from my website. It has a whole chapter on adjusting looms with a lot of info on counterbalance looms. Peggy
Good Morning Peggy , Are you going to have a reprint on this book ? Or a add on ? Or do you maybe have some old copies laying around maybe ?
2nd What other books do you have that i should get ..?
Peggy thank you , Should i get rid of the jacks and just use the direct tie up ? Right now it goes from shafts to jacks to treadles .. ??
Keep the jacks I think. The book will help you understand the geometry. No, all the copies are gone. You can take the PDF to a copy place and have the pages bound. That’s my best suggestion.That and Weaving for Beginners are the top book preferences. The others are references–the details and why’s to do things. If you like knowing the why’s you might want the other 2 books but they aren’t required as the first 2 are. Peggy
Ok Thank You , I did find a used one in good condition through Amazon , Through a second seller $125.00 . This book is around but anyone looking for be prepared to pay… We live in a real small community here and I don’t believe theirs a book printing / binding place with in 120 miles of here …. I’m 120 miles NW of Reno NV. on the California Side in the Mountains ..
If you email me, we could work out something. peggy@peggyosterkamp.com Don’t pay $125–
Dear Peggy, I’m helping to renovate an an old counter balanced 4 treadle, 4 lamms loom. The direct tie-up you suggest for pedals to each different shaft is clear but how do I tie the lamms? Are they tied one to each of the bottom of each shaft in a straight sequence 1 on the left to 4 on the right?
The cords to the lams will all be in the middle of the bottom shaft bars and in the middle (center) of the lams. They won’t go left to right but they will be in a line in the centers of the shafts to the centers of the lams. You are correct I think except for the “left and right” part. Let me know if this isn’t clear.
Peggy
This reply is in response to Rosepath tie up. There are several possibilities depending upon the design you are looking to make. The following is a free estimation sheet for warping: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/11V5E-m66uLnOQml2j_kl6KXr0Q4pD1chGyvUGObbT7U/edit#gid=0 and to make what might look like Greek on this sheet is very precise & clear instructions for dressing most any loom: https://comfortclothweaving.com/calculating-warp/
Finally, (this program is not free) it’s a phenomenal tool! It is for Window, Mac & PCs so you have to choose for the type of OS you will be using when you go to your loom with the design. I suggest you peruse this at your leisure: http://weaveit.com/GridNWeaveIt.aspx
Thank you so much, Peggy. I’ll try reducing my warp tension. As it is now, I can hardly get the shuttle through the shed.
With the tie up you recommend, does that make treadling more complicated with various patterns or is it just a matter of getting used to that particular tie up arrangement? (Please excuse my naive questions, but I haven’t done any weaving for such a long time that I’ve got beginner’s brain. Could be a good thing.)
Ms. Peggy, thank you for sharing your knowledge with fellow weavers.
I am a new weaver (Feb 2017) currently weaving on an HD 4S 4T and quite pleased with the loom, for its (limited) capabilities. Yesterday, however, I acquired a ToTT 4S 6T loom. I came across this page and have already tied up the treadles in your suggested manner. I’ve been running the ‘dancing feet’ in my head and already it is natural. Can not wait to get her dressed and try this out.
Thank you!
deb
Wow! I am very happy!
Peggy
I have been struggling for a year now trying to tie up my treadles. The Leclerc Arrived with two tie up on each treadle. They kept getting caught in each other and all my research for answers came up empty until I found this blog. I did exactly what you suggested. 1-4 on 1-2: 2-3 on treadles 3-4 and all is balanced now. Do I need the other set of tie ups on the treadles, and why do they have those. Thank you for your info.
Dear Brigitte,
I’m glad you got your treadles tied up and working. You did almost exactly what I suggested, but here is it exactly. I think you’ll love it better. I will try to explain your questions after the tie up.
Going from left to right tie shaft 1 to the left hand treadle. the next treadle gets shaft 3 then continuing going left to right, tie the next treadle to shaft 4 and the last one tie to shaft 2. then to get plain weave or tabby. press the two left treadles together with the left foot and the two right treadles with the right foot–you’ll alternate feet which makes a good rhythm. (you accomplished the same thing but with different shafts. Left, right, left, right etc. Pressing 2 treadles at a time balances with always 2 shaft up and 2 shafts down = plain weave (tabby). Now, sometime you may want to weave a twill (diagonals in the cloth) which is a weave often used or variations of it. Then you would really dance on the treadles: row 1: treadle shafts 1&2. (two outside treadles). Row 2 press the treadles for shafts 2 & 3. Then 3 & 4, then 4&1. That’s the 4-treadle sequence for a balanced twill. Here it is in short: 1,2 2,3 3,4 4,1. That’s another way to use the 4 shafts. there are many ways for different structures and patterns. If you tie them in the order I suggest, you can weave all the combinations possible with 4 shafts and most often alternate your feet for efficiency and ease. We call it walking the treadles when you alternate your feet. Your loom may be a counter balance loom which likes always to have two shafts up and 2, down for the cleanest sheds.
I think getting my book Weaving for Beginners is a must for you. there is a lot of information with tons of illustrations. I taught it for many years. Now, during the Holiday sale you can get a book free with a book purchased. I suggest you get as your free gift, the PDF of my Book #2: Warping Your Loom & tying On New Warps. That book has a whole chapter on how the different types of looms work and how to tie up the treadles. Check out my website http://www.peggyosterkamp.com
I have a 6 harness Macomber Loom. Weaving on it for 50 years. Love taking a 4 or 8 harness pattern and adjusting it to my 6 harness system.
Right now I am trying to set up for a satin weave. And truthfully it confuses me. Could you please send me a tie up system. Thank you.
It would be an irregular satin. One reason for using it is that you can get a plain weave as well. Lift or lower the shafts in either of these two ways.
135264
or
142635
Irregular means that the same number of shafts between each lift varies to get no two ends adjacent.
Does this make sense? Googled 6-end satin. I knew it would be irregular but the numbers I never remembered.
Peggy
I recently bought a 200cm (79″) Glimakra Soverign. This is my first counterbalance loom, I’ve only worked on jack looms in the past. I understand direct tie on a jack loom, but I don’t understand the counterbalance tie-up, which is what I would like to use, even though I am working on four shafts and four treadles (I plan to add two more treadles). Specifically my failing comes in the role of lamms and their role in the movement of shafts. Do you have any resources on a traditional counterbalance tie-up?
Hi Peggy,
I have an old 8 shaft jack loom and I’m trying to tie up 4 shafts on each treadle. When treadle is depressed, more than 4 shafts come up. Each shaft has weight bars on the top of them. If I remove the weights, would that resolve the problem? I tieing up from right to left.
Dear Sandra, Theoretically your shafts are not heavy enough! That means the shafts not lifted aren’t heavy enough to stay DOWN. Are ALL your treadles being used to lift 4 shafts? One strategy is to tie fewer than needed to two treadles–then lift one first and then the other to complete a shed. If the shafts lifted are separated some on each of the treadles that could help lift them all. If only some treadles need 4 shafts, perhaps you could add weight to the ones that should be down for those picks. Another thought: Can you tie your treadles for one section of the design, then change the tie up for the next area so you can divide down the shafts to fewer shafts on onto each treadle. eg. if you need 1,2,3,4 Up you might raise #1, then add #3 , then add #2, then add #4 to achieve 1,2,3,4 for the shed? that would be 4 treadles, but I hope you get the gist of my idea. Maybe 1,2,3,4 could be divided down to two treadles instead of 4: lift 1&3 then add to that 2&4. What I’m suggesting is try to come up with something that will prevent the rising shafts from dragging up up the ones that should stay down. Opening your sett might be a big help, too. Good luck. Let me know what works or what you decide. Peggy
Thank You Peggy for responding. I’ve tried your suggestions and adding weight to the keep the other shafts down seems to be working. This is my first 8 shaft project with cottton yarn and I’m enjoying every bit of it. The house work can wait.
Thanks again
I just keep coming back to your blog for answers…………………..
And I’ve been a happy camper ever since I saw this Ahren’s Universal Tie Up! I have my late 1940s-early 1950s Gilmore (made by Mr. Gilmore himself) tied up this way. Last Christmas Santa Claus brought new heddles and tie up cord :).
Santa brought me a new iPad this year, and iWeaveit was planned for one of my first purchases……………………I’ve used it before on the Android phone.
So what I’m designing and laying out with the software is a Lift Plan rather than a Tie Up since that doesn’t have to change, right?
This is the beginning of the new me and learning for myself, not just making yarn and stuff for other people (though I do still do that).
Hi Peggy
I’m a beginner and can’t seem to “get my head around” how one would “translate” all regular weaving drafts to work with this treadle tie up.
Thanks!
You will usually use two treadles at a time. For example, to weave a plain weave (tabby) you would lift shafts 1 & 3 using the left foot on the crack between the 2 left treadles to press both treadles so 1 & 3 would lift. The right foot would do the same to lift 2 & 4. Imagine in your mind how a twill would be treadles. For shafts 1& 2, your left foot would press shthe treadle for shaft 1 and the right foot for shaft 2. For 2&3 you would move only one foort the left foot over to lift 3 (your right foot would still be on the treadle for shaft 2). Now imagine 3&4–move only one foot to the treadle for shaft 4. Then for 4&1 move one foot again–you’ll soon be dancing on the treadles. I descrive thoroughly how tying up the treadles works in my book, Weaving for Beginners, beginning on page 95. The special tie up you are questioning is show in fig. 226 on page 96. Since you say you are a beginner, I’ll say I wrote my book just for you. I really tell what to do and explain how to do it. Check my website–you can get it in hard coopy or as a PDF. Please let me know if this all makes sense. If it doesn’t, let me know and I’ll try to explain it in a different way. Anyhow, I hope it is clear for you now.
Peggy
Thanks, Peggy!
Hi Peggy,
I own a J.L. Hammett counterbalance loom and have had it in storage for many, many years. I am trying to locate a manual for the loom so that I can get it set up and I can begin weaving. Any suggestions on where to start?
Thanks!
Go to the Loom Manual Library by Historic Looms of america.
Hi Peggy,
I am a new weaver. I have a Saori 4 shaft loom. After studying the tie-up method I do not believe I am able to use this system. When I step on a treadle, a shaft will move down not up.
This wonderful tie up works for 4 shaft looms with rising OR lowering shafts. Not countermarch, however.
I am totally new to weaving and bought a second hand antique Leclerc Fanny counterbalance. I have had some major issues researching tie ups for counterbalance as everyone seems to have jack looms! I am on my first project (decorative pillows) and part of the pattern is 1/3 twill which has been such a pain for treadling, I JUST set up the treading in this article and am blown away! So glad I accidentally found this article. Thank you thank you thank you! I feel lucky to have found it now and not down the road.
I have just stumbled on this. I’m in the process of warping up my second project on a 4 treadle loom and have been scratching my head about tie-ups as A)most plans seem to be for 6 treadle and B) 1-4 straight across is ok but awkward. Can not wait to try this out! Thank you for sharing it.
What is the purpose of:
1. Treadles with direct tie-up and
2. Treadles with combination tie-up please?
Robin
A direct tie-up can be used on 4 shaft looms because all the 14 combinations of four shafts can be made, often using two feet. Multi-shaft loom have so many more combinations of shafts possible, that two feet aren’t enough to use a direct tie-up. In that case, usually two or more shafts are tied to each treadle. On 4 shaft looms with a direct tie-up you can easily change your mind and make other combinations as you go. If you tied up two or more shafts to a treadle you can only change the tie-up by re-doing the treadles. I recommend the tie-up in the post because you can also usually walk the treadles as well as have the option to make any combinations you want without ever having to re-tie the treadles. Does this make sense? Let me know if not and I can try to explain it better.
Peggy
Hi Peggy!
Thank you for your patient handling of all of our questions. Several years ago I took a weaving class on a J-Made jack loom, during which I made a couple of sampler scarves. I then found a 22″ 8-harness, 10-treadle J-Made loom on Craigslist. Not long after assembling it, I had to move. Now, several years later, I find myself lucky enough to have received a set of assembly instructions from a wonderful weaver in Canada.
The instructions include tie-up instructions, so I figure I’ll try them (unless you think this setup by Jim Ahrens would also work well for an 8-harness, 10-treadle loom), but I am wondering if you could recommend a book (or two) of yours, or someone else’s, for a beginner such as myself working on a jack loom of this size.
Many thanks!
Thea
My Weaving for Beginners I would highly recommend. It will start you out and take you far. As an addition, my book Weaving & Drafting your own cloth tells about weaving with more than 8 shafts. I doubt you’ll need my book Warping Your Loom & Tying on New Warps but you might want it. It has a chapter on how looms work and you may want to tie on new warps, who knows? It’s only available as a pdf. All on my website.
Peggy
Thank you, Peggy!
I have an old 4 shaft 4 pedal counterbalance loom. The lamms have chains fixed in place that go to the treadles. Should I take the lamms down and put them in order 1-3-4-2 so I can use the Ahrens tie-up? I am having a heck of a time learning this old loom. The pattern is showing up on the backside of the weaving, and I struggle to get clean tall sheds. Thanks very much, Peggy
Dear Lorna,
You have the most common problem that counterbalance loom weavers encounter: the pattern on the back side. That is because you are reading the tie-up draft wrong! Most tie-up drafts show what shafts are to be LIFTED. But counterbalance looms need to tell you what to LOWER!! So read the drafts for the blank spaces in the tie up. that’s because what isn’t lifted will be lowered. I’m not sure if I explained this well enough. I explain it a bit on page 121 in Weaving for Beginners. If you are having questions about the loom, I strongly recommend you getting my other book which is only available as a pdf: Warping Your Loom & Tying On New Warps. That book has an extensive section on balancing and using counterbalance looms. As for your question about rearranging the treadles for the Ahrens way, I suggest feeling more comfortable with the loom first. Let me know if you still have questions.
Peggy
Hi Peggy,
Have just found your May 2021 response.
Yes very clear as to a “direct tie-up” but am looking for a simple statement re the purpose and method of operation for “treadles with combination tie-up” please.
Robin.
The frost was well below 5 degrees this morning making staying inside and weaving a very pleasant task.
Peggy, does this treadle tie up impact which harnesses are connected by which rockers.
It’s been a long time since I thought about this. I would try leaving the rockers as usual and see if that works to lift 1&3 and 2&4 etc. or 1&2, 23, 34, 41 etc. For clear sheds you want 2 shafts up and 2 down. And any combination of 2 can be used. I think that will be what you want to do–keep the rockers as usual.
Let me know
Peggy
Hi Peg,
I’m amazed how many years have you been answering people’s questions, you are one in a kind!
My question for you is about a new (to me ) loom. It’s a jack loom with direct tie up. I’m not sure if it’s worth to buy a conversion kit from 4 to 6 threads. What do you think?
By the way, I just have experience in a 4 shaft table loom and I want to move to a floor loom to add speed to my work.
Thanks!
Marcela
Thanks for your kind words–you made my day!
I don’t know what kind of loom you have and wonder if you meant to say from 4 to 6 treadles. I like a direct tie up if you can change the treadles to this order. from the left: shaft 3, shaft 1, shaft 2, shaft 4. If you can’t, you can decide whether to change to 6 treadles or not. You can certainly do everything with the direct tie up for a long time, still knowing you could switch at a later time. The tie up I gave you is repeated (and highly recommended) for 6 treadles in fig. 226 on page 96 in my Weaving for Beginners. See what you think and get back to me for more conversation if you like.
Peggy