Ellen Miller showed me her gorgeous alpaca double weave scarf. She was disappointed that the sett wasn’t exactly balanced as typical double cloth is. This showed more in the white areas. My sense is that it is beautiful with the more open sett.
You can still see the solid black and white areas. For her warp and weft (both the same) she used less than the 80% figure (Ashenhurst calculations) and this is one time I think less that 80% turned out beautifully. (The sett is more open when less than the 80% figure is used.) One reason is that the threads were dense in the warp because of the double weave. That made friction in the reed that prevented the wefts from beating down too much as can happen when the sett is more open than the 80% figure.