When You Have One Warp Beam

Here are three ways to proceed.

• Measure the two warps at the same time on the warping board or reel and beam on as usual. Do this when the threads for both warps are similar, there are few color changes in either warp, or when the tension and take-up on both warps are alike.
• Measure the warps separately and put them together in the raddle and beam one beam as usual. Do this when the tension and take-up on both warps are the same and when there are many color changes on one or both warps.
• Measure the warps separately, weight one warp and put the other warp on the warp beam. Do this when the tension on the two warps is different, the take-up is different, or when the warps are too fat to fit on one beam. It’s easy to do.

When You Have Two Warp Beams

Make two warps and beam each on separate beams. Do this in the following situations, details follow:

• Use two beams when the two warp yarns “take up”differently.
• Put each warp on its own beam when the two warps together would be too bulky or large for one beam’s capacity.
• Make separate warps when there are many color changes in either warp.

How to Use Two Warp Beams

• If one beam would prevent access to the other, be sure to beam the would-be inaccessible one first.
• The two warps must not interfere with each other until they reach the shafts and are threaded together.
• The warps must follow your loom’s correct paths between the beams and the shafts. There might be rollers to go over to bring the warps together at the shafts.
• A pile warp needs to be much longer than its foundation warp, so for a pile warp, choose the beam that has the larger capacity.
• If one warp is to be tensioned more, put it on the beam that has a ratchet brake.
• If there’s a choice, I usually put the larger warp on the beam that follows the lower path to the heddles for easier threading.

How to Beam Two Warps onto a Single Beam

One of my weaving friends thought because she had only one warp beam, she had to warp her loom front-to-back whenever she wanted to weave her ikat double weave hangings.

When she explained her procedure, I knew she absolutely had to learn to warp the two warps back-to-front!

The procedure is simple: make the two warps separately with two leases as usual. (If you have only one lease, read what to do at the beginning of this book.) Put an end stick in each warp and a pair of lease sticks in each of the raddle leases. Load one of the warps into the raddle, check for mistakes, and remove the raddle lease sticks (not the threading lease sticks), as usual. Keep the end stick in the end loops. In the same way, put the second warp into the raddle on top of the first, keeping in the end stick when finished. Secure the threads in the raddle with rubber bands or tie on the raddle cap.

Tie both end sticks to the warp beam apron and beam on as usual. Thin end sticks or rods take up less space on the warp beam. Tie the end sticks together before attaching them to the apron rod if you feel that makes them more secure. When the threading leases appear, put a pair of lease sticks in each lease. Thread the two warps as explained, above.

How to Raise the Second Warp Off the Beam

So your two warps don’t interfere with each other on the back beam, raise the second warp above the main warp. This is especially important if the two warps are used at different rates. I use a firm stick or dowel, slightly longer than the warp width. Insert the stick under the second warp. Use spacers such as erasers or blocks of wood at each each to raise the stick off the beam. The stick and spacers can be secured to the back beam with C-clamps.